Sri Lanka in May and June: Monsoon, Vesak and the East Coast

May and June are when Sri Lanka's seasons switch sides. The south-west monsoon arrives, bringing rain and rough seas to the south and west, and the dry, sunny weather moves to the east coast and the ancient cities. Many travellers avoid these months. Those who come, and who plan around the weather, find lower prices, fewer crowds and two of the most beautiful festivals of the year.

The weather

• South and west coasts: the monsoon usually breaks in the second half of May. Expect heavy downpours, often in the afternoon and at night, with sunny spells in between. The sea is rough, and swimming is unsafe on most beaches. June is generally a little drier than late May.
• Western hill country: Nuwara Eliya, Hatton and Kitulgala are wet, windy and often wrapped in cloud.
• Eastern hill country: Ella, Haputale and Bandarawela lie in the rain shadow, and they are much drier, though it can be very windy.
• Cultural Triangle: dry, hot and breezy.
• East coast and north: dry and sunny, with calm, clear seas. This is the start of their season.

The monsoon varies from year to year. Some years bring flooding and landslides in the south-west in late May, so keep an eye on local news. See our guide to the best time to visit.

Where to go

• Trincomalee and around. Nilaveli and Uppuveli have flat, clear water. Snorkel at Pigeon Island, swim at Marble Beach and look for whales offshore.
• Pasikudah. A shallow, calm bay that suits families.
• Arugam Bay. The surf season is under way, and the town is filling up.
• The Cultural Triangle. Sigiriya, Polonnaruwa and Anuradhapura are dry. The elephant gathering at Minneriya begins to build from June.
• Yala and Udawalawe. Dry-season conditions bring animals to the water. These are good months for leopards in Yala.
• Kandy and Ella. Both work well, with some showers in Kandy.
• Jaffna. Hot and dry. See our north itinerary.

Our east coast itinerary suits these months.

Vesak

Vesak, on the full moon of May, marks the birth, enlightenment and passing of the Buddha, and it's the most important Buddhist festival of the year.

• Lanterns. Homes, streets and temples are hung with paper lanterns, called Vesak koodu. Colombo, Kandy and other towns put up giant illuminated panels, called pandals, that tell stories from the Buddha's lives.
• Dansalas. Volunteers set up roadside stalls giving free food and drinks to everyone who passes. You're welcome to stop.
• Rules. The sale of alcohol and meat is banned for the Vesak days, and many businesses close. Dress modestly, and expect crowds in the cities in the evenings.

Colombo, around Beira Lake and Gangaramaya Temple, is the best place to see the lights.

Poson

Poson, on the June full moon, celebrates the arrival of Buddhism in Sri Lanka. The centre of the festival is Mihintale, where hundreds of thousands of pilgrims in white climb the hill, and Anuradhapura, where they visit the Sri Maha Bodhi. It's a remarkable sight. Hotels there fill up early, and the roads are very busy.

Our festivals calendar lists the dates.

Prices and crowds

On the south and west coasts, this is low season. Hotels cut their rates, sometimes by half, and some small places close for a break. Sites such as Galle Fort are quiet. On the east coast, prices are rising towards the July and August peak, so June is good value there.

Should you still visit the south coast?

You can. Galle Fort is enjoyable in any weather, mornings are often bright, and the green of the countryside is at its richest. Just don't plan a beach holiday around swimming. Experienced surfers still find waves. Read our beach safety guide, because monsoon seas are dangerous.

A sample route for May or June

1. Days 1–3: Sigiriya, Dambulla and Polonnaruwa.
2. Days 4–7: Trincomalee and Nilaveli.
3. Days 8–9: Kandy.
4. Days 10–11: Ella, by train.
5. Days 12–14: Yala for a safari, then Arugam Bay or a return to Colombo.