Polonnaruwa Ancient City

Polonnaruwa became Sri Lanka's royal capital in the 11th century after Anuradhapura was sacked, and reached its height under King Parakramabahu I in the 12th century. He built palaces, temples, hospitals and the vast Parakrama Samudra reservoir that still irrigates the plains today. The ruins are compact, well preserved and set among shady parkland, which makes Polonnaruwa the most enjoyable of Sri Lanka's ancient cities to explore — ideally by bicycle. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Highlights

• The Archaeological Museum — start here. It explains the city's layout and history and is where you buy your ticket.
• The Royal Palace of Parakramabahu — massive brick walls of what was once a seven-storey palace, plus the council chamber with carved elephants.
• The Quadrangle (Dalada Maluwa) — a raised terrace packed with the finest buildings: the circular Vatadage with its moonstones and seated Buddhas, the Hatadage and the unusual stepped Satmahal Prasada.
• Rankoth Vehera — a huge brick stupa.
• Lankatilaka and Kiri Vehera — a towering brick image house with a headless standing Buddha, next to a well-preserved white stupa.
• Gal Vihara — four magnificent Buddha figures carved from one granite face. The highlight of the site.

How to visit

• By bicycle: rent one in town or from your guesthouse. The sites spread over about 5 km of flat, shaded roads.
• By tuk-tuk or with a driver: easier in the heat; arrange a half-day loop.
• Time needed: 4–6 hours for the main sites without rushing.
• Start early (the site opens around 7 am) and break for lunch during the hottest hours.
• Cover shoulders and knees, and remove shoes and hats at temple structures. The ground gets very hot — carry socks.

Getting there

Polonnaruwa is about 1 hour from Habarana, 1.5 hours from Sigiriya and around 5–6 hours from Colombo. Many travellers combine it with an afternoon elephant safari at Minneriya or Kaudulla, which are on the way.