Sri Maha Bodhi, Sri Lanka

The Jaya Sri Maha Bodhi is the spiritual heart of Anuradhapura, and one of the most sacred places in the Buddhist world. It is a fig tree grown from a cutting of the tree at Bodh Gaya in India under which the Buddha attained enlightenment. Planted here in the 3rd century BC, it's often described as the oldest living tree in the world with a known planting date.

The story

According to the chronicles, the cutting was brought to Sri Lanka by Sanghamitta, a Buddhist nun and the daughter of the Indian emperor Ashoka. King Devanampiya Tissa received it with great ceremony and planted it in his royal park. The tree has been tended continuously for more than 2,200 years, through invasions, the fall of Anuradhapura and centuries when jungle swallowed the city around it. Saplings from it were planted all over the island, and beyond.

What you'll see

The sacred tree grows on a high terrace, surrounded by a golden fence and supported by golden props. Visitors can't touch it or go right up to it. Other bo trees grow on the lower terraces around it.

What stays with most visitors is the atmosphere. Pilgrims dressed in white sit and chant on the sand. Families bring trays of lotus flowers, oil lamps and incense. Prayer flags flutter overhead, and drummers announce the daily offerings. It is a living place of worship, much more than a monument.

Puja times

Offerings are made several times a day, typically early in the morning, late in the morning and in the evening, with drumming and processions. Dawn and dusk are the most moving times to be here. On poya days, and especially at Poson in June, tens of thousands of pilgrims come, and the whole sacred city is full.

Visiting

• Dress: white or light-coloured clothing that covers shoulders and knees is expected. Remove your shoes and hat at the entrance, where there are shoe counters.
• Security: bags are checked at the entrance, following an attack here in 1985.
• Photos: photography is allowed in most areas, but don't pose with your back to the tree or shrines, and be discreet around worshippers.
• Heat: the sand and stone become very hot by late morning. Go early, or bring socks.
• Tickets: access to the Sri Maha Bodhi has generally been separate from the main archaeological site ticket. Carry cash for a donation.

Our etiquette guide has more on visiting sacred sites.

Nearby

A short walk leads to the great white stupa of Ruwanwelisaya, past the stone pillars of the Brazen Palace. Isurumuniya is a few minutes away by bike or tuk-tuk. Our Anuradhapura guide explains how to plan a full day, and the Buddhist pilgrimage guide covers the island's other sacred sites.