Ancient Sites of the Deep South: Beyond Yala's Safaris

Long before safari jeeps, the south-east was the kingdom of Ruhuna, a home for princes and rebels, and a refuge during invasions of the north. Its monuments are far less visited than those of the Cultural Triangle, and they fit easily into a trip between Ella, Yala and the coast.

Tissamaharama

Tissamaharama is the classic base for Yala, and it's also a heritage site. Its huge white dagoba is traditionally dated to around the 3rd century BCE, and Tissa Wewa, an ancient reservoir, still waters the rice fields. Visit the stupa at sunrise or sunset.

Nearby is the smaller Yatala Dagoba with a moat and guardstones and a small archaeological museum. It's a quiet place to stop for half an hour.

Kataragama

Kataragama is one of the most sacred towns in Sri Lanka, honoured by Buddhists, Hindus and Muslims. Come for the evening puja, when crowds carry fruit offerings through the sacred grounds to the sound of drums. Visit the white Kiri Vehera stupa nearby. The summer festival is especially intense.

Buduruwagala

Buduruwagala has seven rock-carved figures, including Sri Lanka's tallest standing Buddha, in a quiet forest setting near Wellawaya. It's only a short detour on the road from Ella.

Carved figures at Buduruwagala. Photo: Z thomas, CC BY-SA 4.0

Maligawila

The giant limestone Maligawila Buddha, east of Wellawaya near Monaragala, stands about 11 metres tall. It's one of the largest free-standing ancient statues in Sri Lanka and is worth a detour if you're heading to Arugam Bay. Few tourists make it here.

Mulkirigala and Ussangoda

On the coast, the cave temples of Mulkirigala climb a rock near Tangalle, with reclining Buddhas and old paintings. Ussangoda, a red-earth plateau, has its own Ramayana legend. See our Ramayana sites guide.

A sample day

From Ella to Tissamaharama, by car:

1. Morning — stop at Ravana Falls on the road down, then see Buduruwagala.
2. Lunch — eat in Wellawaya or Tissa.
3. Afternoon — visit Yatala and Tissamaharama Dagoba.
4. Evening — drive to Kataragama for the puja.
5. Next morning — take a dawn safari at Yala.

Tips

• Heat: this is a dry, hot region. Start early and carry water.
• Dress: cover your shoulders and knees at all temples.
• Tickets: some sites charge a small entry fee, so carry cash.
• Driver: public transport is limited, so a driver helps. See our driver guide.
• Safari: read our safari guide to plan your Yala day.

For the wider story, read our short history of Sri Lanka.