Ridi Viharaya, Sri Lanka

Ridi Viharaya, the "Silver Temple", lies in the village of Ridigama, about 20 km north-east of Kurunegala. It's well off the usual tourist routes, and that's a pity, because it is one of the most interesting cave temples in the country. Its art spans many centuries, and it includes some real surprises.

The legend

In the 2nd century BC, King Dutugemunu was building the great stupa of Ruwanwelisaya at Anuradhapura, and he was short of funds to pay for it. According to the chronicle, merchants travelling through this area discovered a vein of silver ore in a cave. The silver paid for the stupa, and in gratitude the king founded a temple on the spot. Ridi means silver in Sinhala.

What to see

• The Maha Viharaya (main cave temple). Beneath a huge overhanging rock is a shrine with a nine-metre reclining Buddha and other statues. At the foot of the reclining image is the temple's most curious feature: a platform faced with blue-and-white Dutch tiles showing scenes from the Bible, among them Adam and Eve and the burning bush. They're thought to have been a gift to the Kandyan king from a Dutch envoy in the 18th century.
• The ivory doorway. The entrance to the shrine has a fine frame with carved ivory panels showing dancers and lions.
• The Uda Viharaya (upper temple). Built in the Kandyan period, it has vivid 18th-century murals and a seated Buddha on a decorated throne.
• Varakha Valandu Viharaya. Near the entrance stands a small stone building that looks like a South Indian Hindu shrine, later converted for Buddhist use. Its name means "the temple where jackfruit was eaten".
• The stupa on the rock. A path climbs to a stupa with views over the wooded hills.

Monks still live and study here, and the temple has a peaceful, lived-in feel.

Visiting

A donation or small entrance fee is expected. Dress modestly, remove your shoes and hat, and ask before taking photographs inside the shrines, where flash should never be used on old paintings. A monk or caretaker may open the shrines for you and explain them. Allow about an hour.

Getting there

From Kurunegala, it takes about 40 minutes by car. From Kandy or Dambulla, allow around 1.5 hours. Public buses reach Ridigama, but connections are slow, so a private vehicle is much easier. Combine it with Arankele or Yapahuwa for a day of quiet, crowd-free history. Our hidden gems guide lists more places like this.