Arankele Forest Monastery, Sri Lanka

Arankele is the site of an ancient forest monastery, hidden among tall trees about 24 km north of Kurunegala. There are no ticket queues or souvenir stalls here. You're more likely to hear birdsong and the sweep of a monk's broom than another visitor. If you enjoyed Ritigala, or if you simply like quiet places, Arankele is a wonderful detour.

History

The ruins date mainly from about the 6th to the 10th centuries. Arankele was home to forest-dwelling monks who chose a strict life of meditation, away from the wealthy monasteries of the cities. They were known as pansukulikas, "rag-robe wearers". Their buildings were plain, with almost no decoration and no grand images, but they were engineered with great skill.

What to see

• The meditation walkway. The highlight is a long, perfectly straight path paved with stone slabs, running for several hundred metres beneath a canopy of ironwood and other old trees. Monks walked here in meditation. Small stone circles mark resting points along the way.
• The double platforms. Raised stone terraces, joined by a small bridge and surrounded by a dry moat, were used for meditation and gatherings.
• The bathhouse. The remains of a jantaghara, a hot-water bath house with a sunken pool, grinding stones for preparing herbal medicines, and stone drains.
• Ponds, caves and a chapter house, scattered through the forest.

A community of monks still lives in the forest today, in simple dwellings beyond the ruins, and their daily routine continues much as it did a thousand years ago.

Visiting respectfully

This is a working hermitage, and silence matters.

• Speak quietly, and don't play music.
• Dress modestly. Remove shoes and hats where signs ask you to.
• Don't photograph the monks without permission, and don't enter the living quarters.
• Take nothing but photographs, and leave no litter.

There's usually no formal ticket, though a donation is welcome. Facilities are almost non-existent, so bring water.

When to go

Early morning is the best time, when the forest is cool and full of birds. The region is driest from January to March and from June to September. After heavy rain, paths can be muddy, and mosquitoes are more of a nuisance, so bring repellent.

Getting there

Arankele is near the village of Hiripitiya, off the road between Kurunegala and Ibbagamuwa. It takes about 45 minutes by car from Kurunegala, and around 1.5 hours from Dambulla or Kandy. Public transport won't get you close. Combine it with Ridi Viharaya for a rewarding day away from the crowds. See also our hidden gems guide.