Aluvihare Rock Temple, Sri Lanka

Aluvihare is a cave monastery set among huge boulders beside the main road, about 3 km north of Matale and 30 km from Kandy. It holds a special place in Buddhist history. In the 1st century BC, monks gathered here to write down the teachings of the Buddha, which until then had been passed on only by memory. The text they produced, the Pali Canon or Tripitaka, became the foundation of Theravada Buddhism.

Why it happened here

The chronicles say that during the reign of King Valagamba, the island suffered invasion and a terrible famine. So many monks died that the survivors feared the teachings would be lost for good. Five hundred monks are said to have met at Aluvihare, and they wrote the whole canon on palm leaves.

The library they created survived for nearly two thousand years. Then, during the Matale rebellion of 1848, British troops damaged the temple, and much of the collection was destroyed. Monks spent the following decades patiently writing it out again.

What to see

• The cave shrines. Narrow steps wind between the boulders to several caves, with reclining Buddhas, painted ceilings and lotus designs.
• The hell cave. One cave contains graphic paintings and figures showing the punishments of sinners in the afterlife. They are gruesome, and parents may wish to look first before taking children in.
• The Buddhaghosa cave. Dedicated to the great 5th-century Indian scholar monk who is said to have worked here on his commentaries.
• The stupa on the rock. A short climb leads to a small stupa and a viewpoint over the Matale valley.
• Palm-leaf writing. In the small museum, a monk or attendant often demonstrates how texts are inscribed on dried ola leaves with a metal stylus and then rubbed with ink. For a small donation, you can have your name written.

Visiting

Foreign visitors pay an entrance fee. Dress modestly, and remove your shoes and hat. The steps and rock are uneven, and they get hot, so socks help. Allow 45 minutes.

Morning or late afternoon is the most comfortable time. The temple is right on the A9 highway between Kandy and Dambulla, so most people stop on the way north to Sigiriya. Buses along the road stop outside.

Nearby

The spice gardens of Matale line the same road. Nalanda Gedige, a rare stone temple, is further north, and the colourful Sri Muthumariamman Hindu temple is in Matale town. See our Cultural Triangle itinerary for how to link these stops.