Kandy

Kandy was the capital of the last Sinhalese kingdom, which held out against the Portuguese and Dutch for more than two centuries before falling to the British in 1815. That history gives the city a dignity you feel as soon as you walk around its lake: white-walled temples, old colonial buildings and forested hills on every side. It sits at about 500 metres, warmer than the higher hill country but fresher than the coast.

Things to do in Kandy

• Temple of the Tooth — the island's holiest Buddhist shrine. Time your visit for a puja, when drummers play and the inner chamber is opened.
• Kandy Lake — a 3.4 km loop walk with views of the temple, the old royal bathing pavilion and the hills. Best around sunset.
• Peradeniya Royal Botanical Gardens — 15 minutes out of town; give it a full morning.
• Arthur's Seat viewpoint — a short tuk-tuk ride up the hill for the classic view over the lake and city.
• Kandyan dance shows — nightly performances near the lake ending with fire-walking. Touristy but fun, especially with children.
• Udawattakele Forest Reserve — a quiet forest right behind the temple with monkeys, birds and shaded trails.
• The Bahirawakanda Buddha — a large white statue above the city with sweeping views.

The Esala Perahera

For about ten nights in July or August (dates follow the lunar calendar), Kandy hosts the Esala Perahera — processions of decorated elephants, drummers, dancers and torch-bearers honouring the Tooth Relic. It is one of Asia's great festivals. Accommodation prices rise sharply, seats along the route sell out and roads close, so book months ahead if you want to be there.

How long to stay

Two nights works for most itineraries: one full day for the temple, lake and gardens, plus an unhurried start for the morning train. Add a night to hike in the Knuckles range or visit tea estates.

Getting to and from Kandy

• From Colombo or the airport: about 3–3.5 hours by road. The train from Colombo Fort takes around 2.5–3 hours and becomes scenic once it starts climbing.
• From Sigiriya or Dambulla: around 2.5 hours by road, passing the Matale spice gardens and Nalanda Gedige.
• Kandy to Ella by train: the famous scenic route, about 7 hours. Reserve seats in advance — see our Kandy to Ella train guide.

Traffic in central Kandy is heavy at rush hour; walking is often quicker than a tuk-tuk for short hops.

Where to stay

Stay near the lake or on the hills above it for views and easy walking. Guesthouses cluster on the roads above the lake's southern side; larger hotels sit further out on the hillsides and along the Mahaweli River.