Elephant Rock (Arugam Bay), Sri Lanka

Elephant Rock is a great hump of granite on an empty beach about 4 km south of Arugam Bay. From the right angle, it looks like an elephant lying down. A sandy point break peels along one side of it, a lagoon lies behind it, and wild elephants really do wander through at dusk. It's one of the most beautiful spots on the east coast, and it's much quieter than the main bay.

Surfing

The wave here is a right-hand point break over sand. On smaller days it is slow and forgiving, which makes it one of the best places near Arugam Bay for beginners and longboarders. When a bigger swell arrives, it becomes faster and more powerful. Several surf schools bring their students here, and boards can be rented in Arugam Bay.

The surf season on the east coast runs from about April to October, with the most consistent waves from June to September. Mornings usually have the lightest winds. Our surfing guide covers the other breaks along this coast, from Whiskey Point to Peanut Farm.

The rock and the sunset

A short scramble takes you to the top of the rock. From there, you can see along miles of empty beach, across the lagoon and inland over the scrub jungle. In the late afternoon, people gather here to watch the sun go down. Bring a torch for the walk back.

Getting there

A tuk-tuk from Arugam Bay takes about 15 minutes along the road towards Panama, and then down a sandy track to the edge of the lagoon. From there, you walk for 10 to 15 minutes along the beach and around the lagoon mouth. Depending on the season and the tide, you may need to wade through shallow water.

Agree a waiting time or a return time with your driver, because there's no transport at the beach.

Wildlife and safety

This is wild country, on the edge of the Kumana and Lahugala reserves.

• Crocodiles live in the lagoon. Don't swim or linger in the lagoon water, cross only where it's shallow and clear, and follow local advice.
• Elephants come out to the lagoon and beach around dawn and dusk. Enjoy them from a long way off, and never approach on foot. Leave before it gets fully dark.
• There's nothing here: no shade, no shops and no lifeguards. Bring water, sun protection and a hat.
• Rips can form beside the rock, so ask surfers about conditions.

Combine it with

Further south, Peanut Farm has two more surf breaks and a couple of simple beach cafés. The forest hermitage of Kudumbigala and the safaris of Kumana National Park are both reached along the same road. Our east coast itinerary puts it all together.