Kudumbigala Monastery, Sri Lanka

Kudumbigala is an ancient Buddhist forest hermitage spread over a landscape of granite outcrops and jungle, about 30 km south of Arugam Bay and close to the entrance of Kumana National Park. It was founded more than 2,000 years ago as a retreat for monks who wanted to meditate far from the world. It still serves that purpose today, and it remains one of the most remote and peaceful monasteries on the island.

What to see

• The caves. More than 200 rock shelters have been identified in the area, many with drip ledges cut above the entrance to keep out rain, and some with ancient Brahmi inscriptions recording who donated them.
• The cave shrine. Near the entrance, a cave houses Buddha images and serves as the main shrine.
• The summit stupa. A path and rock-cut steps lead up the highest outcrop, known as Belumgala, to a small stupa. It is cylindrical, a shape that's very unusual in Sri Lanka.
• The view. From the top, there's a 360-degree panorama: unbroken jungle, the lagoons of Kumana, rock outcrops rising like islands, and the sea on the horizon. Come at sunrise or in the late afternoon for the best light.

The climb takes about 20 to 30 minutes. It's not difficult, but the rock is steep in places and fully exposed to the sun.

History

The hermitage dates from the time of the early Anuradhapura kings. It fell into ruin and was lost to the jungle for centuries. In the mid-20th century, a lay devotee who later became a monk, known as Maithree Upasaka, came to live here and revived it as a place of meditation. His remains are kept at the site. A small number of monks live here now, in great simplicity.

Visiting respectfully

• Keep silent, or speak very quietly. Monks may be meditating in the caves.
• Dress modestly, with shoulders and knees covered, and remove shoes at the shrines.
• Don't enter caves that are in use, and ask before photographing monks.
• Bring water, a hat and good shoes. There are no shops.

Wildlife

The monastery lies inside a sanctuary, and elephants, bears, leopards and snakes all live in the surrounding forest. Stay on the paths, don't walk around after dark, and listen to any advice from people at the site.

Getting there

From Arugam Bay, drive south through Panama towards Okanda and the Kumana park entrance, and take the signposted turn to the monastery. The journey takes about an hour, partly on unsealed road, and a tuk-tuk or jeep can manage it in dry weather. Many visitors combine Kudumbigala with a Kumana safari, or with the Okanda shrine on the coast. The east coast's dry season, from May to September, is the best time. See our hidden gems guide and the east coast itinerary.