Sithulpawwa Rock Temple, Sri Lanka

Sithulpawwa is an ancient Buddhist monastery built on and around a group of granite outcrops deep in the wilderness of Yala. It is more than 2,000 years old, and the chronicles say that thousands of monks once lived and meditated in its caves. White stupas still crown the rocks, and the view from the top takes in an unbroken sea of jungle. It's one of the most atmospheric religious sites in the south.

History

The monastery is credited to King Kavantissa of Ruhuna, in the 2nd century BC, the father of the hero-king Dutugemunu. Its name comes from Chittalapabbata, "the hill of the quiet mind". Stone inscriptions in early Brahmi script record gifts made to the monks by kings and villagers. At its height, the complex spread across a wide area, and ruins lie scattered through the surrounding forest.

What to see

• The main rock and stupa. Steps cut into the granite lead to a stupa on the summit, about 120 metres up. The climb takes 10 to 15 minutes, and the view is superb.
• The cave temple. A large cave shelters a reclining Buddha, with fragments of very old paintings on the rock, among the earliest surviving in the country.
• The smaller rock. A second outcrop, Kuda Sithulpawwa, has another stupa and wide views.
• Ponds, inscriptions and ruins around the base, including carved stone pillars and Buddha images.

Wildlife and safety

The temple lies inside the Yala protected area. Elephants, wild boar, deer and monkeys are regularly seen around the car park and along the road, and leopards and bears live in the surrounding forest. Don't wander away from the temple area, and don't feed or approach the animals. Elephants here are used to people, but they are still wild.

Access

Sithulpawwa is reached by road from Tissamaharama via Kirinda and the Palatupana side of Yala, or by a second road through Kataragama. The drive takes about an hour from Tissa. Pilgrims travel these roads to reach the temple, but they pass through the park zone, so stopping, getting out of the vehicle and driving off the road are not allowed. Rules on entry times, permits and vehicles change, and the route may be closed when the park is shut or in very wet weather, so ask your driver or hotel beforehand. A 4WD or high-clearance vehicle is best.

Many safari drivers can add the temple to a Yala game drive.

Visiting tips

Go early in the morning or late in the afternoon, as the bare rock is very hot at midday, and you must go barefoot in the sacred areas. Dress modestly, and bring water and socks. Poya days draw large numbers of pilgrims. Our guide to the ancient sites of the deep south puts Sithulpawwa in context with Kataragama and the old kingdom of Ruhuna.