Kandy Lake, Sri Lanka

Kandy Lake sits right in the centre of Kandy, beside the Temple of the Tooth. It looks as if it has always been there, but it is man-made. The last king of Kandy, Sri Wickrama Rajasinha, created it in 1807 by damming a stretch of paddy fields, just a few years before the British took the kingdom. It is also known as Kiri Muhuda, the "Sea of Milk".

The walk

A shaded path runs the whole way around the lake, a circuit of about 3.4 km that takes 45 minutes to an hour at an easy pace. It's flat, and it's the most pleasant walk in the city. The side nearest the temple is the busiest. The far side is quieter, with big old trees and better views back towards the temple's golden roof.

Traffic runs close to parts of the path, and the air isn't always clean at rush hour, so early morning is the nicest time to go.

What to look for

• The cloud wall. The decorative white parapet along the temple side is called the Walakulu Bamma. The king never finished it, and the triangular niches were made to hold oil lamps on festival nights.
• The island. According to local stories, the small island in the middle was used by the king's household, and it was later used by the British to store ammunition.
• The Queen's Bath. The Ulpange, a pavilion at the water's edge near the temple, was built as a bathing place for the royal women.
• Wildlife. Look for cormorants, egrets, pelicans, kingfishers, water monitors and the large fish that gather near the banks. Fishing is not allowed, as the lake is protected.
• Royal Palace Park and the viewpoint. A short, steep walk up from the south side leads to Arthur's Seat, a viewpoint with the classic view over the lake and the city.

Stories of the lake

Not everyone welcomed the lake when it was built. Chiefs objected to the forced labour used to dig it, and one story says that those who protested were put to death on stakes in the lake bed. The king lost his throne in 1815, and the lake outlasted his kingdom.

Tips

Go at dawn or in the late afternoon. The path is safe in daylight, but it gets quiet after dark on the far side. Ignore touts offering tours or "special ceremonies", and watch your step where tree roots have lifted the paving. During the Esala Perahera, the streets around the lake are closed for the procession.

After your walk, the forest of Udawattakele is just behind the temple, and the big Buddha at Bahirawakanda watches from the hill opposite.