Colombo

Many travellers skip Colombo on the way from the airport to the beaches or the hills — but a day here is the best introduction to modern Sri Lanka. It is a sprawling, noisy, friendly port city where Buddhist temples, Hindu kovils, mosques and colonial churches sit side by side, glass towers rise over Dutch-era streets, and the best food in the country is served everywhere from street carts to fine-dining rooms.

Things to do in Colombo

• Galle Face Green — a long seafront promenade where families come at sunset to fly kites and eat isso vadai (prawn fritters) from beach stalls.
• Pettah market — Colombo's oldest bazaar, a maze of streets each dedicated to one trade. Go on a weekday morning.
• The Red Mosque (Jami Ul-Alfar) — the striking red-and-white mosque in the middle of Pettah.
• Gangaramaya Temple — an eclectic Buddhist temple and museum, with the Bawa-designed Seema Malaka floating on Beira Lake nearby.
• National Museum and Viharamahadevi Park — the best collection of Sri Lankan history and art, beside the city's largest park.
• Colombo Fort — colonial buildings, the old Dutch Hospital (now restaurants and shops) and the World Trade Center towers.
• Lotus Tower — South Asia's tallest tower, with an observation deck over the city.
• Food — try hoppers, kottu roti and lamprais, and book a table at one of the city's excellent restaurants serving modern Sri Lankan food.

How long to stay

One full day covers the highlights. If you are only passing through, it is often easier to stay in Negombo near the airport and visit Colombo as a day trip.

Getting around

Tuk-tuks are everywhere. Use ride-hailing apps (PickMe and Uber both operate) for fair, metered fares, or agree a price before getting in. Traffic is heavy at rush hour.

Getting there and away

• From the airport: about 45 minutes to 1 hour via the Katunayake Expressway.
• To Kandy: about 3–3.5 hours by road or 2.5–3 hours by train from Colombo Fort.
• To Galle: about 1.5–2 hours via the Southern Expressway, or 2–3 hours on the scenic coastal train.

When to visit

Colombo is warm and humid year-round. It is driest from December to April; the south-west monsoon brings rain from May to September and again in October–November.