Driving in Sri Lanka: Licences, Car and Scooter Rental, and Road Rules

Most visitors to Sri Lanka hire a car with a driver, and for good reason: roads are busy, unpredictable and slow. But self-drive cars, scooters and even tuk-tuks are available for confident drivers who want more independence. Here's what you need to know.

Is it a good idea?

Honestly, for a first visit, a private driver is usually the better choice. It costs little more than self-drive once you add fuel, insurance and parking, and the driver knows the roads, the shortcuts and where to eat. See our driver guide.

Self-driving makes more sense if you're an experienced driver, are staying a long time, or want a scooter for short trips around one area — for example, the south coast or Ella.

What licence do you need?

To drive legally in Sri Lanka as a tourist, you need:

1. Your national driving licence, and
2. An International Driving Permit (IDP) from your home country, and
3. A Sri Lankan recognition permit (sometimes called a temporary driving permit), issued against your IDP or licence by the Automobile Association of Ceylon in Colombo or the Department of Motor Traffic.

Many rental companies help arrange the recognition permit for you, so ask when you book. Make sure your licence covers the type of vehicle — you need a motorcycle category to ride a scooter. Without the right paperwork your travel insurance may not cover an accident.

Renting a car

International and local companies offer self-drive cars, mostly from Colombo and the airport. Check:

• that insurance is comprehensive and what the excess is,
• the condition of tyres, brakes and air conditioning,
• that the car has a spare tyre and the rental company has a 24-hour helpline.

Renting a scooter

Scooters are easy to rent in beach towns such as Mirissa, Weligama, Unawatuna, Hiriketiya and Arugam Bay, and in Ella. Always:

• wear a helmet — it's the law, and police do stop riders,
• photograph the scooter before you ride off,
• avoid riding at night, in heavy rain or after drinking,
• keep your passport — don't leave it as a deposit if you can avoid it.

Renting a tuk-tuk

Several companies rent tuk-tuks to tourists with training and permits included. It's a fun, slow way to see the country. See our tuk-tuk guide.

Road rules and conditions

• Drive on the left.
• Expressways link Colombo with the airport, the south coast and Kandy (partially). They are fast and well maintained, with tolls. Tuk-tuks and motorbikes are not allowed on them.
• Other roads are narrow, winding and shared with buses, lorries, tuk-tuks, bicycles, dogs, cows and pedestrians. Average speeds are often only 30–40 km/h in the hills.
• Buses overtake aggressively and expect you to move over. Give way to them.
• Horns are used to warn others you're there, not out of anger.
• Elephants sometimes cross roads near national parks such as Udawalawe and in the dry zone. Never approach them, stay in your vehicle and keep your distance.
• Avoid driving at night. Many roads are unlit and pedestrians, cyclists and animals are hard to see.
• Police checkpoints are common. Carry your licence, IDP, recognition permit and rental papers.

Fuel and parking

Fuel stations are common along main roads but scarce in remote areas — fill up before heading into the hills or to the east coast. Parking is usually easy outside Colombo and Kandy.