Keerimalai Springs & Naguleswaram Temple, Sri Lanka

Keerimalai lies on the north coast of the Jaffna peninsula, about 20 km from Jaffna town. Its famous feature is a stone bathing tank fed by freshwater springs, set right beside the sea, so that you bathe in cool spring water with waves breaking just beyond the wall. Next to it stands Naguleswaram, the northernmost of Sri Lanka's five ancient Shiva temples.

The legend

The name Keerimalai is usually explained as "mongoose hill". The story goes that a sage whose face resembled a mongoose bathed in the springs and was cured. A later legend tells of a Chola princess, born with a face like a horse, who was also healed here, and who built the nearby Maviddapuram Kandaswamy Temple in thanks. For Hindus, bathing at Keerimalai is still believed to bring healing and merit, and families also come here to perform rites for relatives who have died.

Bathing in the springs

There are separate bathing areas for men and women. The men's tank is the large open one by the sea, and the women's is enclosed behind walls nearby. The water is clear, and it is cool compared with the hot air.

• Men usually bathe in shorts or a sarong. Women should bathe in the women's tank and dress modestly.
• This is a sacred place first and a swimming pool second. Avoid rowdy behaviour, and don't use soap.
• Changing facilities are basic. Bring a towel and a change of clothes.
• Weekends, public holidays and the new moon day of the Tamil month of Aadi (July or August) are very busy.

Naguleswaram Temple

Naguleswaram is one of the Pancha Ishwarams. The old temple was destroyed by the Portuguese in the 17th century, rebuilt in the 19th, and damaged again during the civil war, when this coast was a military zone that civilians couldn't enter for many years. It has since been restored, with a tall gopuram and new halls. Men are generally expected to remove their shirts to enter, and everyone removes shoes. Our Hindu temples guide covers etiquette.

When to go

Come in the morning, before the heat builds. January to September is the driest period in the north, while the north-east monsoon from October to December brings heavy showers.

Getting there

Keerimalai is about 40 minutes from Jaffna by road. Local buses run from Jaffna, but a hired tuk-tuk or car lets you make a loop of the north coast, taking in the Maviddapuram temple and the road east towards Point Pedro. See our Jaffna and the north itinerary.