Fort Frederick (Trincomalee), Sri Lanka

Fort Frederick occupies the narrow rocky peninsula that juts into the sea on the east side of Trincomalee. Every visitor to Koneswaram Temple passes through it, because the temple stands at the far end, on Swami Rock. The fort deserves a little time of its own. Four hundred years of the town's history, under three colonial powers, are packed into this small headland.

History

The Portuguese built the first fort here in 1624, using stones from the great Hindu temple that they had torn down on the headland. The Dutch captured it in 1639 and later rebuilt and enlarged it. Trincomalee's superb natural harbour made it a prize for every naval power, and the fort changed hands several times, briefly falling to the French in the 18th century. The British took it in 1795, and they named it after Frederick, Duke of York.

During the Second World War, Trincomalee was a major base for the British Eastern Fleet, and Japanese aircraft attacked the harbour in April 1942. The fort has remained in military use ever since, and part of it is still occupied by the Sri Lanka Army.

What to see

• The gateway. The main entrance is a massive stone arch bearing the date 1675 and a carved pair of fish, the emblem of the Pandyan kings of South India, taken from the old temple.
• The spotted deer. A herd of deer lives inside the fort, and they wander freely along the road and under the banyan trees. Please don't feed them plastic-wrapped snacks.
• Wellesley Lodge. Arthur Wellesley, later the Duke of Wellington, stayed in this bungalow in 1800. The story goes that illness kept him from sailing on a ship that was later lost at sea, with all on board. The building is in army use, so view it from outside.
• Old cannons and ramparts, with views over Back Bay and Dutch Bay.
• A Buddhist temple with a large standing Buddha, partway up the hill.

Visiting

Entry to the fort is free. Because it's an active military area, stay on the main road, follow any instructions from soldiers, and don't photograph military buildings, vehicles or personnel.

The walk from the gate to Koneswaram takes about 15 to 20 minutes, gently uphill and partly shaded. Tuk-tuks can drive most of the way. Late afternoon is the most pleasant time, with cooler air and good light, and it suits the evening puja at the temple. Allow about an hour for the fort alone.

Getting there

The gate is at the end of Fort Frederick Road, a few minutes from Trincomalee's town centre and bus station, and 15 to 20 minutes by tuk-tuk from Uppuveli. After your visit, the town's Dutch Bay beach is close by, and Marble Beach is across the bay. See our east coast itinerary and short history of Sri Lanka.